What is the story behind Maeshowe Chambered Cairn?

Nestled in the heart of Orkney’s mystical landscape, Maeshowe Chambered Cairn stands as a testament to the ingenuity, spirituality, and resilience of Neolithic society. Built over 5,000 years ago (around 2800 BC), this monumental tomb is not merely a burial site but a masterpiece of ancient engineering, astronomical alignment, and cultural expression. Its story spans millennia, from its construction by Orkney’s earliest farmers to its rediscovery by Norse explorers and modern archaeologists. This article delves into the captivating history, design, and mysteries of Maeshowe, offering a glimpse into a world where the boundaries between life, death, and the cosmos blurred into one.

1. Neolithic Origins: A Tomb of Astronomical Genius

Maeshowe was constructed during the Neolithic period, a time when Orkney was a hub of cultural and technological innovation. The cairn is part of the Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site, which includes iconic landmarks like the Standing Stones of Stenness, the Ring of Brodgar, and the village of Skara Brae. Together, these sites form a ritualistic landscape where communities gathered to worship, honor their dead, and celebrate the cycles of nature.

Engineering Marvel

The construction of Maeshowe was a monumental achievement. The mound measures 35 meters in diameter and 7.3 meters high, surrounded by a ditch carved from solid rock. The interior structure features:

• A 10-meter-long passageway built from massive sandstone slabs, each weighing up to three tonnes.
• A central chamber with four standing stones at its corners, symbolizing spiritual significance rather than structural necessity.
• Three side chambers with floors, walls, and ceilings made of single stone slabs.

Estimates suggest the construction required 39,000 to 100,000 man-hours, involving meticulous planning and communal labor. The builders used primitive tools, such as antlers, to shape and transport these stones, possibly from quarries three miles away.

Astrological Alignment

One of Maeshowe’s most mesmerizing features is its alignment with the winter solstice. For three weeks before and after the solstice (around December 21), the setting sun casts a beam of light through the entrance passage, illuminating the central chamber’s back wall. This phenomenon, shared with sites like Newgrange in Ireland, likely served as a spiritual symbol of rebirth and the promise of longer days after winter’s darkness.

2. Purpose and Rituals: More Than a Tomb

While Maeshowe is often called a “chambered cairn” or “passage grave,” its purpose extends beyond burial. Unlike typical tombs, human remains are conspicuously absent from Maeshowe, with only fragments of skulls found during excavations. This has led archaeologists to speculate that it served multiple functions:

• Ritualistic Ceremonies: The solstice alignment suggests it was a site for seasonal gatherings, where communities celebrated astronomical events.
• Ancestral Veneration: The standing stones and side chambers may have been used to honor ancestors, with rituals involving the manipulation of bones.
• Symbol of Power: The scale of construction implies it was built by an elite social class to display wealth and authority.

Recent theories propose that Maeshowe was part of a broader Neolithic “low road” connecting ceremonial sites, facilitating trade and cultural exchange.

3. Viking Intrusion: Runes and Graffiti

After lying sealed for nearly 3,000 years, Maeshowe was rediscovered in the 12th century by Norsemen. According to the Orkneyinga Saga, Viking warriors, including Earl Harald Maddadarson, sought shelter in the cairn during a blizzard in 1153. During their stay, they carved over 30 runic inscriptions into the walls, creating the largest collection of runes outside Scandinavia.

Viking Graffiti

The runes range from playful to profound:

• Romantic Declarations: “Ingigerth is the most beautiful of women”.
• Boasts and Stories: “Ottarfila carved these runes” and accounts of treasure hidden within the cairn.
• Mythical Carvings: The famous “Maeshowe Dragon” etching, depicting a serpent-like creature.

These inscriptions provide a glimpse into Viking culture and their fascination with the ancient structure.

4. Modern Rediscovery and Exploration

Maeshowe was officially excavated in 1861 by James Farrer, an antiquarian MP known for his aggressive methods. Farrer broke into the cairn by dismantling its roof, damaging the structure but uncovering the Viking runes. His careless approach drew criticism, with archaeologist John Hedges describing him as having “a rapacious appetite for excavation matched only by his crude techniques”.

Archaeological Insights

Later excavations, such as those led by Dr. Colin Richards in 1991, revealed additional details:

• The cairn was built on a leveled platform of white clay, possibly for ritual purposes.
• It overlay an earlier Neolithic house, suggesting continuous sacred use of the site.
• The surrounding ditch was modified by Vikings in the 9th century, indicating later reuse.

Today, Maeshowe is managed by Historic Environment Scotland and accessible via guided tours from the Stenness Visitor Centre.

5. Mysteries and Unanswered Questions

Despite extensive research, Maeshowe retains an aura of mystery:

• Missing Remains: The lack of human bones challenges its classification as a tomb. Some theorists, like Peter Tompkins, suggest it was an astronomical observatory similar to Egyptian pyramids.
• Symbolic Standing Stones: The four corner stones in the central chamber serve no structural purpose, hinting at spiritual significance.
• Cultural Connections: Similarities to Irish passage graves (e.g., Newgrange) indicate possible cultural exchanges between Orkney and other Neolithic societies.

6. Visiting Maeshowe Today

Maeshowe remains one of Scotland’s most popular historical attractions. Key details for visitors:

• Tours: Access is by guided tour only, with tours departing from the Stenness Visitor Centre.
• Solstice Events: Special tours are available during the winter solstice, though bookings fill quickly.
• Facilities: The visitor centre includes exhibits, a gift shop, and parking.

Table: Maeshowe Opening Hours and Tour Times

Conclusion: A Legacy in Stone

Maeshowe Chambered Cairn is more than a relic; it is a bridge between worlds—Neolithic and modern, earthly and celestial. Its story reflects humanity’s eternal quest to understand life, death, and the universe. As the winter solstice sun continues to illuminate its chambers after 5,000 years, Maeshowe stands as a timeless symbol of human creativity and resilience. For visitors, it offers a profound connection to the past and a reminder that some mysteries are meant to endure.

Experience Maeshowe: Plan your visit through Historic Environment Scotland and witness the awe-inspiring solstice alignment.