They are everywhere. Those iconic red trucks rumble down every soi, weave through every market crowd, and wait in cheerful clusters at every major intersection. For visitors to Chiang Mai, the songthaew (สองแถว)—literally “two rows” in Thai—is the defining sound and sight of getting around. But for the uninitiated, these converted pickup trucks can be a source of confusion. How do you flag one down? How much should you pay? Where do they actually go?
Mastering the songthaew is the key to unlocking Chiang Mai like a local. This guide will transform you from a confused tourist waving uncertainly at passing trucks into a confident navigator of the city’s most beloved transport system.
What Exactly Is a Songthaew?
Before we dive into the how-to, let’s understand what we’re dealing with. A songthaew is a pickup truck that has been modified for passenger transport. The name comes from the Thai words “song” (สอง), meaning “two,” and “thaew” (แถว), meaning “row”—referring to the two parallel benches installed in the cargo bed where passengers sit facing each other .
These vehicles originated in Thailand during the 1950s, evolving from modified sedans into the robust, truck-based transport that now serves communities across the country . In Chiang Mai, they are locally known as “rod daeng” (red cars), a nickname derived from their distinctive crimson colouring, which helps passengers easily identify them on fixed routes .
The beauty of the songthaew lies in its simplicity. There are no complex route maps to memorise, no timetables to consult, and no apps to download (though you can use them). It’s a system built on human communication and a shared understanding of how things work.
The Two Ways to Ride: Shared vs. Private
The single most important concept to grasp about Chiang Mai’s songthaews is that they operate in two distinct modes. Confusing these modes is the primary source of overpaying and frustration.
Mode 1: Shared Ride (The “Red Bus”)
In this mode, the songthaew functions as a shared taxi or minibus, following loose but predictable routes through the city. The driver will already have passengers on board, and you’re essentially joining an existing journey .
- How it works: You stand on a main road, raise your hand to flag down a passing red truck, and when it stops, you quickly tell the driver your destination (e.g., “Wat Phra Singh” or “Warorot Market”). If the driver nods and gestures for you to hop in, it means you’re going in roughly the same direction as the other passengers. You climb into the back, find a spot on the bench, and pay when you get off .
- The cost: This is the budget option. Fares for shared rides are fixed and remarkably cheap—typically 20 to 30 baht per person for journeys within the city . One source notes that fares can go up to 50 baht for longer distances, but the 30-baht standard is widely cited .
- When to use it: For getting between major areas along main thoroughfares—from the Old City to Nimman, or from the Night Bazaar to the train station.
Mode 2: Private Charter (The “Red Taxi”)
This is where things get confusing for visitors. If you flag down a songthaew and tell the driver a specific destination—especially a hotel, a tourist attraction outside the city centre, or anywhere off the beaten path—the driver will likely assume you want to charter the entire vehicle .
- How it works: You approach a driver (or they approach you) and negotiate a price for a private trip. The driver will turn off the “shared” mode and take you directly to your destination, not picking up anyone else along the way.
- The cost: This is more expensive than a shared ride but can still be cheaper than a tuk-tuk or taxi for groups . Prices are negotiated upfront and vary wildly based on distance, your bargaining skills, and the driver’s mood. A short private charter within the city might start around 100-150 baht, while trips to the outskirts (like Doi Suthep) will cost significantly more.
- When to use it: For groups of 3-4 people, for trips to destinations not served by main routes, or when you’re in a hurry and don’t want to make multiple stops.
The golden rule: If you want a shared ride, simply name a street or a landmark. If you want a private charter, name a specific hotel or ask “how much to go to…?” and be prepared to negotiate.
The Color Code: Not All Songthaews Are the Same
Here’s a detail that even some regular visitors miss: while the ubiquitous red trucks dominate the city centre, songthaews come in other colours, and each colour serves a different purpose .
The red trucks are your go-to for getting around the core city. They ply the main streets without fixed routes, essentially acting as a flexible, on-demand shared taxi network .
However, if you’re venturing out of the city to surrounding districts, you’ll want to look for songthaews of different colours. These operate from the main terminus at Warorot Market (also known as Kad Luang) and follow specific routes to the suburbs and beyond .
- Yellow songthaews: Go north to Mae Rim and Doi Saket.
- Green songthaews: Go northeast to Mae Jo and San Sai.
- Blue songthaews: Go south to Sarapee and Lamphun.
- White songthaews: Go east to Mae Taeng and San Kamphaeng.
- Orange songthaews: Go northeast to Fang.
These coloured songthaews are particularly useful for reaching attractions like the Bo Sang Umbrella Village (served by white trucks heading toward San Kamphaeng) or the Tiger Kingdom in Mae Rim (served by yellow trucks) .
How to Hail, Ride, and Pay Like a Pro
Now let’s walk through the practical steps of a successful songthaew journey.
Step 1: Find Your Spot
Stand on a main road within the city. Songthaews are most frequent on major arteries like Thapae Road, Moon Muang Road, and Nimmanhaemin Road. You’ll see them constantly.
Step 2: The Hail
When you see a red truck approaching, raise your hand clearly. Make eye contact with the driver. They’ll pull over if they have space and are willing to take you.
Step 3: The Confirmation (Crucial!)
Lean toward the driver’s window and state your destination clearly and simply. For example: “Warorot Market?” or “Nimman?” The driver will either nod (yes, get in) or shake their head and wave (no, not going that way). If they nod, ask “Tao rai?” (How much?) just to confirm. For a shared ride within the city, the answer should be “30 baht.” If they quote a higher price, you can politely say “30 baht, shared, yes?” to clarify you want the shared rate .
Step 4: The Ride
If the driver agrees, hop in the back. The benches are typically bare metal or wood, so if you’re wearing shorts, be prepared for a firm seat. Hold on to the handrails—the ride can be bumpy. Enjoy the breeze and the view.
Step 5: The Stop
When you’re nearing your destination, there’s no need to shout. Simply reach up and press the buzzer or bell button, usually located near the roof on the side of the truck . This signals the driver to pull over. Some older trucks may not have a bell, in which case a friendly “stop here, please” shouted toward the front works fine.
Step 6: The Payment
As you climb out of the back, walk to the driver’s window and pay. Cash only—have small bills ready. Hand over your 30 baht (or agreed-upon fare) and offer a quick “khob khun khrap/ka” (thank you).
Songthaew Fares: What You Should Expect to Pay
Let’s talk numbers. Prices can vary slightly depending on the source and the year, but here’s a reliable breakdown based on current information.
| Journey Type | Typical Fare (per person) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Shared ride within city (standard) | 20-30 THB | The most commonly cited fare |
| Shared ride (longer city distance) | 30-50 THB | For trips crossing the entire city |
| From Airport to Old City (shared) | 30-50 THB | Look for red trucks outside arrivals |
| From Train Station to Old City (shared) | 30-50 THB | Easily found outside the station |
| Private charter (short city trip) | 100-150 THB+ | Negotiated; price is for the whole vehicle |
| To attractions outside city | 50-100+ THB | Depends on distance; ask at Warorot Market for coloured trucks |
One important note: the airport bus (route 24A) from Chiang Mai International Airport to the Old City costs around 50 THB, which is comparable to a songthaew but offers air conditioning and a guaranteed seat .
Common Routes and Where to Find Them
While songthaews don’t have fixed routes, certain patterns emerge. Here’s where to catch them for specific journeys:
- To the Airport: Find a red truck on any main road heading south. Flag one down and confirm they’re going to the airport. Shared fare should be 30-50 THB .
- To the Train Station: Red trucks constantly run between the Old City and the station via Charoen Muang Road. Fare is 30-50 THB .
- To the Bus Station (Arcade): Hop on any red truck heading east on Kaew Nawarat Road. Fare is 30-50 THB .
- To Warorot Market: This is a major hub. Red trucks from all over the city converge here. Fare from the Old City is 20-30 THB.
- To Bo Sang Umbrella Village: Head to Warorot Market and look for white songthaews heading toward San Kamphaeng. Fare is around 50-100 THB .
- To Doi Suthep Temple: This is a special case. Regular red trucks don’t typically go up the mountain. Instead, you’ll find dedicated songthaews (often pickups with roofs) waiting at the base near Chiang Mai University. They charge a fixed rate (around 50-80 THB one-way) and leave when full.
Songthaew Etiquette: Do’s and Don’ts
A few cultural pointers will serve you well:
- Do have small bills. Drivers appreciate not having to make change for a 1000-baht note.
- Do be patient. The driver may take a slightly indirect route to drop off other passengers first.
- Don’t expect a seatbelt. There aren’t any. Hold on tight.
- Don’t be afraid to negotiate. For private charters, bargaining is expected. Be polite but firm.
- Do learn basic Thai numbers. Knowing how to say 30 (sam-sip) and 50 (ha-sip) helps confirm fares.
- Don’t take up more space than necessary. If it’s crowded, be mindful of fellow passengers.
Songthaews vs. The Alternatives
How do these red trucks stack up against other options?
- vs. Tuk-Tuk: Tuk-tuks are faster for short, direct trips but significantly more expensive (starting at 50-60 THB for a short ride, often 100+ THB for tourists) . Songthaews win on value.
- vs. Grab (ride-hailing): Grab offers convenience, upfront pricing, and air conditioning, but costs more—typically 150-250 THB for trips within the city . Songthaews win on budget.
- vs. RTC City Buses: Chiang Mai has attempted to launch a bus system, but as of early 2025, services were unreliable and rarely seen . Songthaews win on availability.
- vs. Renting a Scooter: A scooter gives you ultimate freedom and can cost as little as 250 THB per day . It’s great for confident riders, but comes with risks and requires an International Driving Permit. Songthaews win on safety and zero hassle.
Final Thoughts: Embrace the Red Truck Experience
The songthaew system is not about efficiency in the Western sense. It’s about connection, flexibility, and a touch of adventure. Will you occasionally get a driver who quotes a tourist price? Yes. Will you sometimes wait a few extra minutes for one going your way? Probably. But you’ll also share a bench with monks heading to temple, watch city life unfold through an open side, and arrive at your destination for the price of a cup of coffee.
Mastering the songthaew is a rite of passage in Chiang Mai. It transforms you from someone being transported to someone actively participating in the city’s rhythm. So next time you see a red truck rumbling by, raise your hand, climb in, and enjoy the ride. You’re not just getting from A to B—you’re experiencing Chiang Mai exactly as it should be experienced.
