When we imagine traditional Scottish attire, the iconic kilt almost always springs to mind—a bold garment of tartan fabric, symbolising clan identity and Highland pride. But this celebrated symbol is a relative newcomer to the long history of Scottish dress. The story of what Scots wore before the kilt is a fascinating tale of practicality, social status, and ancient Celtic style, painting a picture far richer and more complex than popular culture often allows.
For centuries before the first belted plaid (the feileadh mòr, the great kilt and true predecessor to the modern kilt) emerged in the 16th century, the people of Scotland dressed in garments that reflected their environment, resources, and deep Celtic and Norse influences. This was a clothing system born not of ceremony, but of necessity and rugged adaptation to the Scottish landscape.
The Léine: The Celtic Tunic
The foundational garment for both men and women in early medieval Scotland was the léine (pronounced ‘lay-nuh’), a Gaelic term meaning “shirt.” This was not a simple undershirt but a long, loose-fitting tunic that could reach to the knees for men and the ankles for women. Made from linen, hemp, or even finely woven wool, the léine was a practical and versatile piece.
For commoners, the léine was often undyed, showcasing the natural off-white or brown of the fabric. The wealthy, however, displayed their status through colour. Saffron-yellow was a particularly prized and expensive dye, associated with Gaelic nobility across Scotland and Ireland. A saffron-yellow léine was a powerful status symbol, its vibrant colour signalling wealth and importance.
Men would typically wear their léine with a leather or fabric belt, pulling the excess material up over it to create a bloused effect that provided freedom of movement for labour and combat. Underneath, they would wear breeches or trews—close-fitting trousers that were often made of leather or sturdy wool. These trews were essential for protection against the harsh elements and rugged terrain.
The Brat: The Multipurpose Plaid
No outfit was complete without the brat, a large, rectangular mantle or cloak. This was the true forerunner to tartan cloth and arguably the most important garment in a Highlander’s wardrobe. Woven from thick, oily wool that retained heat even when wet, the brat was a survival tool.
Its uses were endless: a cloak against rain and wind by day, a blanket by night, a makeshift tent for shelter, or even a stretcher for carrying the wounded. It was typically fastened at the shoulder with a penannular brooch—a distinctive ring-shaped pin often intricately decorated with Celtic knotwork. The size, quality, and colour of the brat indicated the wearer’s social standing. A chieftain’s brat would be large, made of fine wool, and potentially feature simple checked or striped patterns, early precursors to the complex tartans we know today.
Women’s Attire: Elegance and Practicality
Women’s clothing followed a similar principle of layered practicality. Their attire centred on a long, ankle-length léine, often with wide, flowing sleeves. Over this, they would wear a earasaid (or arasaid), a tailored version of the brat specifically for women.
The earasaid was a large length of tartan or checked woolen cloth, draped around the body and fastened at the waist with a belt and at the breast with a large brooch. It could be arranged in various ways—pulled over the head as a hood or tightened for warmth. Married women often wore a curch or breid, a simple white linen kerchief tied around the head to cover their hair.
Trews: The Trousers of the Elite
While the belted plaid became the signature garment of the Gaelic Highlander, another garment was favoured by the ruling classes and those on horseback: trews (in Gaelic, triubhas).
Unlike the simple breeches worn under a léine, these were elaborate, form-fitting trousers that cut on the bias for stretch. They were often made from finely woven tartan and could extend from waist to ankle, sometimes even covering the foot. Trews required a significant amount of tailored cloth, making them a garment for the wealthy—lairds, chieftains, and horsemen who needed the flexibility they offered in the saddle. They represented a different sartorial tradition, one of tailored elegance rather than draped practicality.
Footwear and Accessories
Completing the pre-kilt ensemble was practical footwear. The most common shoe was made from a single piece of deerhide or cowhide, gathered around the foot with a leather thong. This simple design, known as a rivelin, was waterproof and durable.
For nobility, more sophisticated shoes and boots were worn. Accessories were minimal but significant. The aforementioned penannular brooch was crucial for securing cloaks and was a key piece of personal jewellery. Leather belts with ornate buckles held everything together, and sporran-like pouches were carried to hold personal effects, long before the sporran became a kilt accessory.
The Norse Influence and Regional Variations
Scotland’s history is one of migration and integration, and its clothing reflected this. In the Northern and Western Isles, where Norse influence was dominant from the 8th century onwards, clothing incorporated Viking elements. This included wearing trews similar to those found in Norse settlements and different styles of tunics and cloaks fastened with distinctively Scandinavian brooches.
What people wore could also vary dramatically from the Lowlands to the Highlands. Lowlanders, with closer cultural and trade ties to England and the Continent, often adopted fashions more akin to their southern neighbours, featuring shorter tunics and hose. The layered, draped style of the léine and brat was overwhelmingly a garment of the Gaelic-speaking Highlands and Islands, perfectly suited to its specific environmental and cultural needs.
The Evolution: Birth of the Kilt
The transition to the kilt began simply. The massive, cumbersome feileadh mòr (great kilt) was essentially a fusion of the brat (the cloak) and the léine (the tunic) into one enormous piece of tartan cloth, typically around 5-6 yards long. It was gathered and belted at the waist, with the upper portion draped over the shoulder. Its invention in the 16th century is often, though apocryphally, attributed to an English ironmaster who wanted his Scottish workers to have less cloth to get in the way while forging.
By the late 17th and early 18th centuries, the great kilt was the defining garment of the Highland clans. It was only after the tragic Battle of Culloden (1746) and the subsequent Dress Act that banned tartan and Highland dress that the smaller, simpler feileadh beag (small kilt) or philabeg—the modern kilt we recognise today—evolved, separating the skirt from the draped upper cloth.
The clothing that preceded the kilt reveals a narrative of a resilient, adaptable people. It was a wardrobe shaped by wind, rain, and rugged mountains, woven from the very wool of the sheep that grazed there. It speaks of ancient Celtic roots, external influences, and a sharp division between social classes. So, the next time you see the striking image of a kilt, remember the long-lost léine, the multipurpose brat, and the elegant trews—the sophisticated and practical garments that clothed a nation long before tartan became a global phenomenon.