How did British change Indian clothing styles?

British colonial rule in India lasted for nearly two centuries, from the mid-18th century to 1947. This period had far-reaching effects on nearly every aspect of Indian life, including its clothing styles. Prior to British colonialism, India had a rich and varied clothing tradition, with each region having unique fabrics, patterns, and clothing styles. However, British influence brought many changes to Indian clothing, affecting the fashion choices of both the elite and the common people. The transformation of clothing during British rule can be understood in several distinct phases, in which key elements changed not only the aesthetics but also the social and cultural fabric of Indian society.

When the British established control over India, they brought with them their Western ideals of fashion, which gradually began to influence the way Indians dressed. For British officials and expatriates, India was often viewed through the lens of European superiority. As a result, the British tried to impose their own cultural norms, including clothing styles, on the Indian population. British officials and staff often wore European-style suits, trousers, waistcoats, and hats, creating a clear distinction between the colonists and the native population.

Indian elites, especially in the cities and courts, were very quick to adopt aspects of European fashion, as they considered it more sophisticated and modern. Traditional Indian garments such as the dhoti, sari, and kurta gradually began to make way for Western-style garments, such as trousers, shirts, coats, and suits. This trend was particularly prominent in urban areas such as Calcutta (now Kolkata) and Bombay (now Mumbai), where many Indian elites and businessmen wanted to associate themselves with Western values ​​in an attempt to gain favor with British rulers.

The British colonization of India had a profound effect on the country’s textile industry. Prior to British rule, India was known for its high-quality fabrics, such as cotton, silk, and wool, and played an important role in the global textile market. However, with the advent of British rule, the textile industry underwent a drastic change. The British introduced industrialization in the Indian textile sector, but instead of supporting local craftsmanship, they established monopolies over the production and sale of textiles.

British manufacturers introduced machine-made fabrics, which were often cheaper and more durable than hand-woven Indian textiles. As a result, local weavers and artisans struggled to maintain their livelihoods, and traditional textile production saw a significant decline. Furthermore, British colonial policies, such as promoting Indian raw materials exported to Britain for processing, further reduced the domestic availability of high-quality textiles for Indians. The rise of British cotton mills led to the widespread adoption of British-made fabrics, which gradually replaced traditional Indian fabrics such as khadi and muslin as everyday wear.

British colonial officials played a direct role in shaping clothing trends in India, both for practical reasons and as a symbol of power. British officers often wore formal, austere, European clothing to maintain a clear distinction between themselves and the native population. This created an aspiration among the Indian elite to adopt Western-style clothing, believing that doing so would be a symbol of their progress and modernization.

Colonial rulers promoted the idea of ​​’civilizing’ India, and this often included encouraging the Indian elite to adopt British clothing styles, such as suits and dresses. They also introduced European practices such as the wearing of hats, ties, and gloves to further distance the colonial elite from the local population. In doing so, the British also promoted the idea that Western clothing was superior, while traditional Indian clothing was seen as backward and archaic.

In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, as India’s nationalist movement began to gain momentum, a conscious resistance to Western clothing styles emerged. Leaders such as Mahatma Gandhi encouraged the use of khadi (hand-spun cotton cloth), a traditional textile that represented self-reliance and resistance against British imports. The khadi movement became a powerful symbol of Indian nationalism and the struggle for independence.

Gandhi’s simple dress, consisting of a dhoti and shawl, became a hallmark of the nationalist cause, and this simplicity was intended to reject the excesses associated with Western clothing and colonial influences. The emphasis on khadi also led to a revival of traditional textile arts, as people across the country were urged to wear Indian-made garments and support local industries. This was a direct challenge to the British-imposed economic structure, which favored British-made goods over indigenous products.

After India’s independence in 1947, there was a significant revival of traditional Indian clothing styles, although the influence of British fashion could still be seen in urban centres. While Western-style clothing such as suits and dresses continued to be worn by the elite, traditional garments such as the sari, kurta, and sherwani were once again adopted as symbols of national identity and pride.

The post-colonial period also saw the introduction of fusion styles, combining elements of Western and Indian fashion. The use of fabrics such as khadi and silk combined with Western tailoring techniques to create new hybrid clothing styles that reflect India’s diverse cultural heritage and modern aspirations.

British colonialism in India had a profound impact on the country’s clothing styles. From the introduction of Western fashion and the decline of traditional garments to the rise of nationalist movements and the revival of indigenous garments after independence, British rule left an indelible mark on India’s clothing landscape. While Western clothing became a symbol of modernization and power, the nationalist movement and India’s eventual independence led to a renewed appreciation for traditional Indian clothing. Today, a blend of Western and Indian styles is shaping the country’s vibrant fashion industry, reflecting a mix of colonial history and cultural resilience.